Posts Tagged Birchen

Edgy

I managed to escape the corporate shackles of the NHS last Wednesday and make it up to the Peak District for a quick run.

It rained all morning, which didn't enthuse me particularly, but a text from Ben and Ben revealed they were travelling up to get some climbing in so I thought I'd catch a lift with them. The rain heading up the M1 continued to cast doubt on the wisdom of climbing, so they decided on Birchen as a destination on the basis that it had lots of chimneys to squirm up in the wet. The rain had cleared by the time I set off, and I left them gearing up as I set off along Birchen Edge.

Still one of my favourite Peak District views: Curbar Edge from the Gap end of Baslow Edge. Copyright Haydn Williams 2011.

Still one of my favourite Peak District views: Curbar Edge from the Gap end of Baslow Edge. Copyright Haydn Williams 2011.

From Birchen I took the scenic route across Baslow, Curbar and Froggatt Edges as far as the Grouse Inn. Having forgotten my map, I relied on half-forgotten paths to get me up to the top of White Edge, where I startled a group of red deer. I've no idea how long there have been deer in the Peak, but I don't recall seeing them before! A little digging has subsequently revealed that there's a study to track their movement, and they've even been visiting people's garden in Curbar! My trip back along White Edge was generally uneventful, but not having been up there for several years now I'd forgotten how long it was and how spectacular the outlook was.

Those blobs on the horizon are deer. Honestly. Copyright Haydn Williams 2011.

Those blobs on the horizon are deer. Honestly. Copyright Haydn Williams 2011.

Dropping back to the end of Birchen, I retraced my earlier steps and got back to the car shortly before the two Bens returned with tales of falls on size zero cams and untying from ropes while perching on ledges. My route ended up being a shade under 10 miles, done in 1h 40m because conditions underfoot can only be described as a quagmire. A quick drink in the Robin Hood rounded the day off nicely, the only possible improvement being if I'd ordered the rather delicious-sounding chicken, bacon and leek pie.

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Beautiful Birchen

I unexpectedly found myself able to escape the house last Sunday, and wasn't too knackered after flogging myself silly running around Snowdonia the previous day. Jamie, G and I went up to Birchen, a favourite location of ours, and had a bit of a play around. I'll confess we barely took any photos so you'll have to make do with this lovely nut placement G found on either Heave Ho (S 4a) or Sailor's Crack (S 4a).

I appreciate this perhaps isn't up to the standard of photography expected of this blog, but it was a *very* nice placement.

I appreciate this perhaps isn't up to the standard of photography expected of this blog, but it was a *very* nice placement.

We climbed reasonably efficiently compared to our usual antics, and despite my initial misgivings whilst floundering up Trafalgar Crack (VDiff 4a), I later led Sailor's Problem (VDiff) without any issues, wobbles or hissy fits. By the time of our departure I was feeling pretty confident on rock again; just need to keep it up now over the course of the summer.

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Return to grit

After the recent confidence-building session on Tryfan Bach, I ventured to Birchen yesterday to get back out on grit. I was hoping to get some VDiffs and maybe one or two HVDs done, but it didn't quite turn out that way.

<strong>Ben wedged in <em>Torpedo Tube</em> (HVD 4a).</strong><br />Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

Ben wedged in Torpedo Tube (HVD 4a).Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

First route: Torpedo Tube (HVD 4a).
Result: Got halfway up on lead and backed off.
Assessment: A horrible, horrible route that ruined my t-shirt when I seconded it. Squirm your way up and twist your legs through 90 degrees for maximum discomfort. Minus one star.

Second route: Lieutenant's Ladder (Diff).
Result: Got halfway up on lead and backed off.
Assessment: I really should have got up this. Probably would have done in the dry, when I'm not going mental.

Third route: Prow Wall (Mod).
Result: Finally, managed to get up something!
Assessment: It defeated me last time, so I was reasonably pleased with this. Although it was just a Mod.

I also seconded Ben on Cannonball Wall (VDiff), which was fine, and soloed Tar's Gully (Diff). I'll admit to being a bit downcast about this performance, and was about to chalk it up as a rubbish day. However, since subsequently checking my UKC Logbook (registered partners only), I've realised that the last time I put on rock shoes was the beginning of December last year. So perhaps expecting to lead the same grade after nearly 11 months off is a little much to ask. The problem wasn't physically doing the moves, it was committing to them on lead. I didn't feel anywhere near as secure as I knew I should do, so I think some time needs to be spent on some even easier routes to get some mileage back in. And probably on a dry day, too. Bit gutting, but at least there's a game plan and plenty of potential climbing coming up. MPS is overflowing with climbers at the moment, which is great. Speaking of which, Ben had a great day today on his third (?) day climbing outside. He lead two routes and soloed nine others up to HVD, and also had some lessons in placing gear and building belays. The sun came out just as we finished climbing, and Ben (the other one) and Greg also had some fun in dirty chimneys wrestling chockstones.

<strong>The brief appearance of sunshine goes to Ben's head.</strong><br />Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

The brief appearance of sunshine goes to Ben's head.Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

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