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Posts Tagged Birchen

Beautiful Birchen

Apr 16

Posted by Haydn in Outdoors | 1 Comment

I unexpectedly found myself able to escape the house last Sunday, and wasn't too knackered after flogging myself silly running around Snowdonia the previous day. Jamie, G and I went up to Birchen, a favourite location of ours, and had a bit of a play around. I'll confess we barely took any photos so you'll have to make do with this lovely nut placement G found on either Heave Ho (S 4a) or Sailor's Crack (S 4a).

I appreciate this perhaps isn't up to the standard of photography expected of this blog, but it was a *very* nice placement.

I appreciate this perhaps isn't up to the standard of photography expected of this blog, but it was a *very* nice placement.

We climbed reasonably efficiently compared to our usual antics, and despite my initial misgivings whilst floundering up Trafalgar Crack (VDiff 4a), I later led Sailor's Problem (VDiff) without any issues, wobbles or hissy fits. By the time of our departure I was feeling pretty confident on rock again; just need to keep it up now over the course of the summer.

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Return to grit

Oct 22

Posted by Haydn in Outdoors | 2 Comments

After the recent confidence-building session on Tryfan Bach, I ventured to Birchen yesterday to get back out on grit. I was hoping to get some VDiffs and maybe one or two HVDs done, but it didn't quite turn out that way.

<strong>Ben wedged in <em>Torpedo Tube</em> (HVD 4a).</strong><br />Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

Ben wedged in Torpedo Tube (HVD 4a).Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

First route: Torpedo Tube (HVD 4a).
Result: Got halfway up on lead and backed off.
Assessment: A horrible, horrible route that ruined my t-shirt when I seconded it. Squirm your way up and twist your legs through 90 degrees for maximum discomfort. Minus one star.

Second route: Lieutenant's Ladder (Diff).
Result: Got halfway up on lead and backed off.
Assessment: I really should have got up this. Probably would have done in the dry, when I'm not going mental.

Third route: Prow Wall (Mod).
Result: Finally, managed to get up something!
Assessment: It defeated me last time, so I was reasonably pleased with this. Although it was just a Mod.

I also seconded Ben on Cannonball Wall (VDiff), which was fine, and soloed Tar's Gully (Diff). I'll admit to being a bit downcast about this performance, and was about to chalk it up as a rubbish day. However, since subsequently checking my UKC Logbook (registered partners only), I've realised that the last time I put on rock shoes was the beginning of December last year. So perhaps expecting to lead the same grade after nearly 11 months off is a little much to ask. The problem wasn't physically doing the moves, it was committing to them on lead. I didn't feel anywhere near as secure as I knew I should do, so I think some time needs to be spent on some even easier routes to get some mileage back in. And probably on a dry day, too. Bit gutting, but at least there's a game plan and plenty of potential climbing coming up. MPS is overflowing with climbers at the moment, which is great. Speaking of which, Ben had a great day today on his third (?) day climbing outside. He lead two routes and soloed nine others up to HVD, and also had some lessons in placing gear and building belays. The sun came out just as we finished climbing, and Ben (the other one) and Greg also had some fun in dirty chimneys wrestling chockstones.

<strong>The brief appearance of sunshine goes to Ben's head.</strong><br />Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

The brief appearance of sunshine goes to Ben's head.Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

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Birchen Edge

Oct 9

Posted by Haydn in Outdoors | No Comments

Earlier today I popped over to Birchen Edge with Heather, for her first outdoor climbing and me to lead some stuff, having only seconded last time I was there (a good 12 months ago).

We hit all the grades from Easy ('Mast Gully') through to VDiff ('Gun-cotton Groove'), in glorious weather. I'd highly recommend "Tar's Gully" as an easy but just plain nice route; "Gunner's Gangway" was fun too, and I even got to use my shiny new cams. Excellent.

Photos will be forthcoming after I've had the film processed, which will be next week when I'm back from Scotland with MPS. EDIT: Film's back; nice.

Heather seconding "Gunner's Gangway" (Copyright Haydn Williams 2008)

Heather seconding "Gunner's Gangway" (Copyright Haydn Williams 2008)

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