Posts Tagged Burbage North

Burbage к северу

Burbage North was the location for an excursion on Saturday. G kindly agreed to spend the day helping me get back into the swing of leading on rock again. We started the day on Steptoe (M), moved onto Little Plumb (Diff) and then I stepped up to Monkey Corner, Slanting Crack and Triangle Buttress Arete (all VDiffs, *). There was a lot of faffing and much deliberation about gear placements; it became clear that my problem with leading is trusting my gear, rather than a physical inability to do the moves. Anyway, I got up them all in the end without any falls, although G did provide some beta regarding gear when required. A very useful exericse, and hopefully I won't be so worried about getting back on something of similar difficulty next time I'm out.

G on Overhanging Buttress Arete (Mod, *). Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

G on Overhanging Buttress Arete (Mod, *). Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

We had a rather gear-tastic day too, finding a guidebook, a hat and five very dodgy-looking eastern European cams. We shamelessly used the guidebook instead of our own for the day (it being more detailed), and are now trying to track down some comrade willing to own up to owning the rusty, battered death-cams.

"You expect me to survive a lead fall on those dodgy Russian cams?"

"You expect me to survive a lead fall on those dodgy eastern-bloc cams?"

"No Mr. Bond, I expect you to die."

"No Mr. Bond, I expect you to die."

After spending a lot of time standing on ledges willing myself to move up a few inches, we decided some more rapid movement was required, and went for a run. We did an hour's loop from Burbage bridge down the edges to the top of Padley Gorge and then back along the top of Millstone and over Higgar Tor. I'd not been out for three weeks, so it blew the cobwebs away and reminded me I really need to step up a gear if I manage to get a place on the Nine Edges (fingers crossed).

I'm not sure ice creams are touted as a recovery food, but there was a van at Burbage bridge and it would have been rude not to oblige. Suitably cooled down, we headed home. Possibly the last dry day out for a while, the way the weather forecast looks at the moment!

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Found: One Gritstone Mojo

After last week's shambolic trip to Birchen, it seemed best to just keep up the momentum and get back out on rock again. Phil, Ben and I went to Burbage North today to do exactly that, and had a very productive day.

A relieved Ben tops out on Wobblestone Crack (HVD 4a). Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

A relieved Ben tops out on Wobblestone Crack (HVD 4a). Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

I started by seconding Phil up Cranberry Crack (VDiff), and then followed Ben up Triangle Crack (HVD) which was definitely more of a struggle. After that I was dragged around to Monkey Wall, a Mod about which the old guide book says something like "if you get scared on this, you're in the wrong game". After some umming and ahhing, it turned out I was in the right game, but only because some old bloke climbed up it while I was prevaricating, and I couldn't then face the embarassment of failing to get up it.

Mod number four, End Slab. Disclaimer: May look steeper than it actually is! Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

Mod number four, End Slab. Disclaimer: May look steeper than it actually is! Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

After that, things just kind of clicked. We didn't bother getting the rope out again for a while, except for Ben to lead Wobblestone Crack (HVD 4a). The route was Phil's first lead, and he was convinced it was wonderful. I can't repeat what Ben said as he topped out, but Phil wasn't looking too impressed by the time he'd seconded it either. We continued our amble along the whole of Burbage North, soloing Mods and Diffs, which was exactly what I needed to get back into the swing of things. My confidence was right back up by the end of the day, when I got some jamming practice in on 20-foot Crack (S 4a). I really do love jamming, so that finished the day off in a fine manner.

Sunset over Higgar Tor. Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

Sunset over Higgar Tor. Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

Final tally: five Mods, three Diffs (depending which guide book you read) and three others. Excellent.

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