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Posts Tagged Climbing

Burbage к северу

Jul 12

Posted by Haydn in Outdoors | No Comments

Burbage North was the location for an excursion on Saturday. G kindly agreed to spend the day helping me get back into the swing of leading on rock again. We started the day on Steptoe (M), moved onto Little Plumb (Diff) and then I stepped up to Monkey Corner, Slanting Crack and Triangle Buttress Arete (all VDiffs, *). There was a lot of faffing and much deliberation about gear placements; it became clear that my problem with leading is trusting my gear, rather than a physical inability to do the moves. Anyway, I got up them all in the end without any falls, although G did provide some beta regarding gear when required. A very useful exericse, and hopefully I won't be so worried about getting back on something of similar difficulty next time I'm out.

G on Overhanging Buttress Arete (Mod, *). Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

G on Overhanging Buttress Arete (Mod, *). Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

We had a rather gear-tastic day too, finding a guidebook, a hat and five very dodgy-looking eastern European cams. We shamelessly used the guidebook instead of our own for the day (it being more detailed), and are now trying to track down some comrade willing to own up to owning the rusty, battered death-cams.

"You expect me to survive a lead fall on those dodgy Russian cams?"

"You expect me to survive a lead fall on those dodgy eastern-bloc cams?"

"No Mr. Bond, I expect you to die."

"No Mr. Bond, I expect you to die."

After spending a lot of time standing on ledges willing myself to move up a few inches, we decided some more rapid movement was required, and went for a run. We did an hour's loop from Burbage bridge down the edges to the top of Padley Gorge and then back along the top of Millstone and over Higgar Tor. I'd not been out for three weeks, so it blew the cobwebs away and reminded me I really need to step up a gear if I manage to get a place on the Nine Edges (fingers crossed).

I'm not sure ice creams are touted as a recovery food, but there was a van at Burbage bridge and it would have been rude not to oblige. Suitably cooled down, we headed home. Possibly the last dry day out for a while, the way the weather forecast looks at the moment!

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Cannock and a Cave

May 10

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Last weekend turned out to be a bit action-packed, leaving me thoroughly exhausted after 14 miles cross-country on a downhill bike, and far too long spent grovelling around in a grubby cave at Harborough.

On Saturday I finally managed two things which I have wanted to do for ages: ride the new bike properly, and visit Cannock Chase trails. A timely invitation from G to join his band of adventurers found us tackling the Follow the Dog and Monkey XC trails. I took the LTS-DH, hoping to hit the DH trails, but fate had a different plan in store. Not far into Follow the Dog, my seatpost clamp snapped in two, forcing me to ride the (longer than anticipated) rest of the trails on a bike with 5" of saggy travel, and with the saddle touching the top of the seat tube.

Rest stop, halfway around the Monkey Trail. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Rest stop, halfway around the Monkey Trail. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Nevertheless, the excellent company kept it enjoyable and the downhill bits were great fun on the new bike. The front end is amazing when pointing in the right direction, despite feeling ridiculous when riding along tarmac. I was worried that having spent four months building it, I might have created some kind of awful monster, but it seems all my deliberation and decision making has been vindicated. It was helped along by G's nina-style brake bleeding skills, undertaken with a home-made bleed kit in the car park – good work!

Finally, the LTS-DH gets into it's home environment. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Finally, the LTS-DH gets into it's home environment. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

By the end of the loop I was pretty much shafted, and not really able to make the best of the downhills after the effort of hauling / pushing the bike up the uphill sections. An awesome sandwich / cake combo* at the cafe finished the day off nicely though, and I can't wait to get out again soon for some proper DH action.

Yesterday I met up with James at Harborough Rocks for his first taste of Peak District single-pitch cragging. Not having rock boots, he chose to climb in his B2/3 winter boots and as per usual showed me up anyway. I ticked off some routes I'd wanted to do, took James up Trident Arete as I think it's the "must-do" route of the crag, and then foolishly mentioned that I wouldn't mind a look at the routes in the cave.

Things start getting a bit funky on Skylight Chimney (VDiff). Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Things start getting a bit funky on Skylight Chimney (VDiff). Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

I've looked at the two routes before, and they've always looked grotty and horrible. I can now confirm that close up they are indeed grotty and horrible. I started on Cave Chimney (VDiff), and quickly got coated in filth while squirming my way up the first bit. Assuming the worst is past, you launch sideways and upwards towards the hole in the roof, only to find more grime waiting for you further up. Still, it was fun in a weird kind of way.

Pleased my current position doesn't require any digging. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Pleased my current position doesn't require any digging. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Having finished Skylight Chimney I returned to the guidebook at the bottom of the crag, only to realise shortly after that James was eyeing-up the other route in the cave, Cave Chimney (HVD). Sure enough, I soon found myself wedged in another grotty crack, desperately wishing I had a spade to dig out some kind of hold on the flat muddy shelf I was confronted with at shoulder height. With a lack of gear I wimped out, and James soon found himself in the same position. Possessing a sense of ingenuity I had wholly failed to display, he cunningly threw a hex into a crack a good four feet above his high point and, with that clipped, proceeded to launch himself onto the aforementioned ledge.

James gets to grips with the top half of Cave Chimney. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

James gets to grips with the top half of Cave Chimney (HVD). Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

From there more squirming (and a load of bad language) led to the top. Definitely worth it's zero stars! After these subterranean adventures we returned to the glaring sunlight and knocked off a couple more routes to end the day. I'm now safe in the knowledge that I need never venture into the cave again, and James enjoyed himself despite all the grovelling around in the dark.

Another filthy chimney route ticked off the list. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Another filthy chimney route ticked off the list. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

I left him to travel home in a newly souped-up Uan (new alloys, new signwriting and a hammock!), while I made my way back to Leicestershire dreaming of a hot shower.

* – BBQ chicken baguette followed by a chocolate-topped caramel rice crispie cake, since you asked.

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Terrace Wall

Apr 30

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Spent a nice couple of hours down at Terrace Wall on Tuesday with G and Jamie. I used to hate Terrace Wall because everything was too hard, but there's actually a reasonable number of easier problems on the middle tier. Even the traverse of the left-hand side of the top tier is seemingly do-able now, so I must be doing something right.

G on what might be Right Arete, I can't really remember. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

G on what might be Right Arete, I can't really remember. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

I carried on with some extra problems on the greener right-hand end of the middle tier once everyone else had left, and had a thoroughly good time. What a great way to spend an evening; roll on the summer if this is what it brings.

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Tryvan Bach

Apr 30

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A couple of weeks ago James and I spent the day climbing on Tryfan Bach. But never mind that, he's only gone and bought a climbing van!!

More car-related shenanigans meant another trip to my parents', and it would have been rude not to go out somewhere. We spent a very pleasant day on Tryfan Bach, helped by the fact that it wasn't particularly busy. I got over-confident and tried to run the three-pitch Little Tryfan Arete (Diff, ***) into a single pitch, but had to abandon that plan and scuttle off to easier ground when I realised I'd run out of QDs.

James setting up a belay somewhere on Tryfan Bach. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

James setting up a belay somewhere on Tryfan Bach. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Anyway, the big news is James' van. It a massive posh Merc, and he's already boarded the back out. He reckons it's for work, but I can see through his thinly-veiled excuses. All it needs now is a vent in the roof and maybe a side window and it'll be awesome for climbing weekends! Fans of the faithful old L200 truck needn't worry though – apparently there are no plans to get rid of that just yet (it's incredibly useful in winter when everything else gets stuck!).

The new van gets its first taste of Snowdonia. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

The new van gets its first taste of Snowdonia. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

As we left the crag at the end of the day we tried to think up a name for the new van. Despite some sterling suggestions, nothing quite seemed to fit. However, when we got back to the layby James rightfully pointed out that it already had a name…

That settles it - the van's called Ewan. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

That settles it - the van's called Ewan. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

So, after our first rock day of the year, we toddled off home. Here's to plenty of future adventures with Uan…

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Beautiful Birchen

Apr 16

Posted by Haydn in Outdoors | 1 Comment

I unexpectedly found myself able to escape the house last Sunday, and wasn't too knackered after flogging myself silly running around Snowdonia the previous day. Jamie, G and I went up to Birchen, a favourite location of ours, and had a bit of a play around. I'll confess we barely took any photos so you'll have to make do with this lovely nut placement G found on either Heave Ho (S 4a) or Sailor's Crack (S 4a).

I appreciate this perhaps isn't up to the standard of photography expected of this blog, but it was a *very* nice placement.

I appreciate this perhaps isn't up to the standard of photography expected of this blog, but it was a *very* nice placement.

We climbed reasonably efficiently compared to our usual antics, and despite my initial misgivings whilst floundering up Trafalgar Crack (VDiff 4a), I later led Sailor's Problem (VDiff) without any issues, wobbles or hissy fits. By the time of our departure I was feeling pretty confident on rock again; just need to keep it up now over the course of the summer.

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Cneifion contrasts

Dec 23

Posted by Haydn in Outdoors | 1 Comment

Up to Cwm Cneifion again today, following reports of good climbing conditions after a dump of snow earlier in the week. James was mad keen for a taste of winter climbing after last year's foray up Parsley Fern Gully, and I fancied leading something more involved than a snow plod (although I still say you can't beat a good plod at times).

We had a rather leisurely start and got to the upper section of the Cwm at 10:30. There were already teams on Easy Route (I), Hidden Gully (II) and spread across Clogwyn Ddu (crazy hard). I fancied Tower Gully (I/II 2), a line which goes up the side of Maybe Tower Rib (Grade 3 scramble). On arrival, it looked a bit steeper and more hairy than I'd anticipated, but the internet had informed me that it was all fine, with nice neve in the upper half and simple ice steps throughout (albeit three of them instead of the one mentioned in the guide book).

Tower Gully (I/II 2) goes straight up the middle. Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

Tower Gully (I/II 2) goes straight up the middle. Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

The internet lied. The entire route was alternating sections of good ice and horrible knee-deep graupel which gave way under the slightest bit of pressure. None of the climbing was particularly difficult, but the penalty for failure was high and the chances of a slip also reasonable under such dodgy snow conditions. Nevertheless, it was a useful exercise in pushing myself; there was a distinct lack of gear placements in the gully walls so each pitch got a single ice screw protecting the steep step and that was about it! I'm not normally very good at getting anywhere above gear, so was pleased with my performance today.

Start of the second pitch - leaving horrid snow and getting onto nicer ice. Photo by James Devine. Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

Start of the second pitch - leaving horrid snow and getting onto nicer ice. Photo by James Devine. Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

Right from arriving in the cwm we noticed people on some seriously hard looking routes over on Clogwyn Ddu – turns out we were watching a clean ascent of Cracking Up (IX, 9), the hardest winter route in Wales. On the way out we also saw Rich Cross and Ian Parnell on Travesty (VIII, 8), and another party got up the oft-lauded El Mancho (VI, 7).

James at the top of Tower Gully. Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

James at the top of Tower Gully. Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

On topping out, we were treated to views over much snow inland, and out to the Isle of Man and Ireland in the opposite direction. The weather held out all day, and we had a very leisurely walk off down Devil's Kitchen, which entailed walking very slowly and messing about an awful lot. Coming down the Kitchen we met a lady who'd been on South Gully (IV 5) and The Screen (IV 4). There were actually loads of teams heading into Idwal this morning, even though most of the ice routes actually looked a little thin. I think the whole area needs a good thaw and re-freeze to get the snow into condition (and preferably more snow too!), and a longer cold spell before the popular ice routes get into the kind of nick where they can withstand large numbers of holiday ascents!

The Glyder plateau in atmospheric afternoon light. Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

The Glyder plateau in atmospheric afternoon light. Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

So a hard day on a grade I/II, while those at the other end of the experience / talent scale had a marginally harder day on the other side of the cwm. It certainly gives us something to aim for…

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You win some…

Dec 8

Posted by Haydn in Outdoors | 1 Comment

You win some, you lose some. I took a gamble last weekend with a trip to Snowdonia, and I definitely won.

After reports of good conditions the previous weekend, and exciting things being done throughout the week, I decided a lightning raid on North Wales was required in the hope of catching some early season snow. With everyone else busy due to financial / eco-warrior / christmas dinner commitments, this was to be a solo mission. Driving along the A55 at 06:00 on Saturday morning, the thermometer in the car read 9 degrees C, and my hopes of getting anything done were fading. I pulled in to Ogwen caff car park at 07:45; there were two cars already present, and I feel we all bonded as we sat there, looking gloomily past flailing windscreen wipers at the nearly-bare Glyderau. However, I hadn't driven all that way to go for a ramble, so I bunged the pointy things in my bag and ventured up to Cwm Cneifion anyway.

Climbers on Easy Route. You can see my footprints pretty much all the way up the route. Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

Climbers on Easy Route. You can see my footprints pretty much all the way up the route. Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

Mercifully there was still some snow left! Despite a major thaw most other places, the north-facing headwall of the upper cwm had retained some gully snow that was still climable. At the end of last year I had a look at Easy Route (I), but found it full of slush. This time it was perfectly doable, so do it I did. It lives up to its name, serving as a nice start to the new season. The top section gets a bit steeper and more interesting, and I was up on the plateau pretty quickly. With my desired route for the day dealt with, I pondered the most interesting way down. Y Gribin was still plastered in snow and ice, and looked a bit dicey, so I opted for Senior's Ridge. Plans soon changed when I decided to traverse from Senior's back into the upper cwm, and have a nosey at Corner Gully (I/II).

Repeating Easy Route. Do steps count as cheating? Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

Repeating Easy Route. Do steps count as cheating? Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

As I reached my initial start point, I met another bloke who had his eye on the same route. He went up first while I demolished a bacon sandwich, and I then followed him, taking a slightly different line at the top. Like Easy Route, I was surprised at the quality of the snow; despite a couple of soft patches it seemed I'd managed to get away with two routes. On the plateau once again, we went our separate ways and I plodded down Senior's Ridge. It seems my recent gym and running regime has paid dividends, because – full of enthusiasm – I went back again and repeated Corner Gully! Heading down Senior's Ridge for the third time that day, I promised myself just one more route. I'd been eyeing-up a nice looking line in the corner towards Tower Rib, which the guide book later informed me was the top end of Tower Slab (II/III). While doing Corner Gully for the second time, I'd noticed a few bits of rock thawing away from the cliff and descending at speed, so aborted that plan and repeated Easy Route instead. By this point there had been a lot of melting everywhere, and I figured four laps was probably enough! Being a little sick of Senior's Ridge by this point, I descended over Glyder Fawr and past Devil's Kitchen. Going under Idwal slabs I saw a party of three backing off Ordinary Route, which brought back fond memories of last year's MPS trip.

Too much stuff for one person? Drying kit in the 'van. Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

Too much stuff for one person? Drying kit in the 'van. Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

I spent the night in the caravan, drying things off and listening to the seventeen hours of non-stop rain which followed my descent from the Glyders. I had a leisurely start on Sunday, waiting for the rain to stop (which it did, eventually). Given a rather horrid forecast, gleefully summed up by Becs on the phone as "chilly, windy, soggy", I decided to head up Moel Siabod via Daear Ddu, the east ridge. I parked in Capel and walked the first bit to the top of the horrible tarmac track, at which point I started running. Despite a rather viscious but short-lived hailstorm, I made reasonable time to the ridge, which is a Grade 1 scramble. No matter how many times I do it, I just keep coming back to it; you can make it as easy or as hard as you like, and nowhere is it particularly scary. I had great fun picking an interesting line up the ridge, and then made it from the summit back to the car in just over half an hour. So, that was my first proper run over a mountain, and I think we can class it as a success.

Descending from Siabod - Capel, Llynau Mymbyr and the Carneddau in the background. Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

Descending from Siabod - Capel, Llynau Mymbyr and the Carneddau in the background. Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

All in all, it seems I managed to wrestle a bit of snowy fun and a decent hill run from what could have been a very wet and generally dismal weekend. Roll on the rest of the season.

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Bamford

Nov 16

Posted by Haydn in Outdoors | No Comments

Yesterday saw my first trip to Bamford, and the same for Gareth and Jamie. It's made up of a few different sections spread out along the edge, but the rock on each bit is really broken up and disjointed so there's loads of lines all over the place. The first thing that my partners in crime did was slap me on a Severe 4a, Bamford Wall, without telling me what it was. I got halfway up  on lead before bailing. That said, I was pleased with the first half, which I didn't really want to do in the first place, if I'm honest. I was also quite relieved when they revealed it was harder than anything I've ever led previously; if it had turned out to be a Mod or something then I wouldn't have been impressed!

G takes over on Bamford Wall (S, 4a). Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

G takes over on Bamford Wall (S, 4a). Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

After that Jamie led Short Curve (HVD) and Recess Crack (VDiff). Gareth then did something involving finger jams and suggestions that it wasn't as hard as the guidebook reckoned (Bilberry Crack, VS 5a). Despite a bit of dampness early on, the sun broke through around mid-morning and the rock was perfectly dry for most of the day.

Scoping out Short Curve (HVD). Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

Scoping out Short Curve (HVD). Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

As usual when us three make it to a crag together, I don't think it could be described as the most efficient session ever witnessed on grit. That, however, is not the point – it was a lot of fun, conditions were great, and we finished the day in true style on a Mod first climbed in 1900 (Easy Chimney). You can't really ask for much more, can you?

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Found: One Gritstone Mojo

Oct 29

Posted by Haydn in Outdoors | No Comments

After last week's shambolic trip to Birchen, it seemed best to just keep up the momentum and get back out on rock again. Phil, Ben and I went to Burbage North today to do exactly that, and had a very productive day.

A relieved Ben tops out on Wobblestone Crack (HVD 4a). Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

A relieved Ben tops out on Wobblestone Crack (HVD 4a). Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

I started by seconding Phil up Cranberry Crack (VDiff), and then followed Ben up Triangle Crack (HVD) which was definitely more of a struggle. After that I was dragged around to Monkey Wall, a Mod about which the old guide book says something like "if you get scared on this, you're in the wrong game". After some umming and ahhing, it turned out I was in the right game, but only because some old bloke climbed up it while I was prevaricating, and I couldn't then face the embarassment of failing to get up it.

Mod number four, End Slab. Disclaimer: May look steeper than it actually is! Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

Mod number four, End Slab. Disclaimer: May look steeper than it actually is! Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

After that, things just kind of clicked. We didn't bother getting the rope out again for a while, except for Ben to lead Wobblestone Crack (HVD 4a). The route was Phil's first lead, and he was convinced it was wonderful. I can't repeat what Ben said as he topped out, but Phil wasn't looking too impressed by the time he'd seconded it either. We continued our amble along the whole of Burbage North, soloing Mods and Diffs, which was exactly what I needed to get back into the swing of things. My confidence was right back up by the end of the day, when I got some jamming practice in on 20-foot Crack (S 4a). I really do love jamming, so that finished the day off in a fine manner.

Sunset over Higgar Tor. Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

Sunset over Higgar Tor. Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

Final tally: five Mods, three Diffs (depending which guide book you read) and three others. Excellent.

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Return to grit

Oct 22

Posted by Haydn in Outdoors | 2 Comments

After the recent confidence-building session on Tryfan Bach, I ventured to Birchen yesterday to get back out on grit. I was hoping to get some VDiffs and maybe one or two HVDs done, but it didn't quite turn out that way.

<strong>Ben wedged in <em>Torpedo Tube</em> (HVD 4a).</strong><br />Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

Ben wedged in Torpedo Tube (HVD 4a).Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

First route: Torpedo Tube (HVD 4a).
Result: Got halfway up on lead and backed off.
Assessment: A horrible, horrible route that ruined my t-shirt when I seconded it. Squirm your way up and twist your legs through 90 degrees for maximum discomfort. Minus one star.

Second route: Lieutenant's Ladder (Diff).
Result: Got halfway up on lead and backed off.
Assessment: I really should have got up this. Probably would have done in the dry, when I'm not going mental.

Third route: Prow Wall (Mod).
Result: Finally, managed to get up something!
Assessment: It defeated me last time, so I was reasonably pleased with this. Although it was just a Mod.

I also seconded Ben on Cannonball Wall (VDiff), which was fine, and soloed Tar's Gully (Diff). I'll admit to being a bit downcast about this performance, and was about to chalk it up as a rubbish day. However, since subsequently checking my UKC Logbook (registered partners only), I've realised that the last time I put on rock shoes was the beginning of December last year. So perhaps expecting to lead the same grade after nearly 11 months off is a little much to ask. The problem wasn't physically doing the moves, it was committing to them on lead. I didn't feel anywhere near as secure as I knew I should do, so I think some time needs to be spent on some even easier routes to get some mileage back in. And probably on a dry day, too. Bit gutting, but at least there's a game plan and plenty of potential climbing coming up. MPS is overflowing with climbers at the moment, which is great. Speaking of which, Ben had a great day today on his third (?) day climbing outside. He lead two routes and soloed nine others up to HVD, and also had some lessons in placing gear and building belays. The sun came out just as we finished climbing, and Ben (the other one) and Greg also had some fun in dirty chimneys wrestling chockstones.

<strong>The brief appearance of sunshine goes to Ben's head.</strong><br />Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

The brief appearance of sunshine goes to Ben's head.Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

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