Posts Tagged Climbing

IV dose

The Screen is a grade IV, 4 ice route in Cwm Idwal, and on Friday last week it was in condition, albeit a wet condition. The nicely sheltered first belay provided me with a lovely spot to watch Brannock's antics on the rather spectactular looking cliff above. I hadn't realised quite how steep the ice was until I was trying to perch on it to remove screws while the route dripped around me. No slips, but it's fair to say I'm in no hurry to lead grade IV. After that, I inefficiently led the first pitch of The Ramp (III,3) over the course of about a week and a half (at least that's how long it felt like it took), and John took over for the harder pitch above. Anyway, I've departed from the norm here and made a video instead of including photos. Enjoy!


If the embedded video above isn't working for any reason, you can view the video directly on Vimeo here: https://vimeo.com/haydnwilliams/shortwalk

As the contents of the cwm melted around us on the walk back to the car, we quickly considered our options and decided to make a dash home. We weren't, however, aware of the severe weather warnings which had been issued for snow, and so the journey took seven and a half hours instead of three. Nevertheless, we kept ourselves amused by using snow chains in Stoke and did eventually make it back to Burton. Most exciting.

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Summer in a Day

People who know me will be aware that I like planning. In-depth, meticulous, well-in-advance planning. But sometimes life throws the best days at you with very little notice.

I gave short notice to Greg, Ben and Jonny about the Gritstone Series race at the Longshaw Sheep Dog Trials last weekend, but pleasingly they could all make it. Greg and Ben knew what to expect, but it was Jonny's first fell race. With an advertised start of 11:00 I decided to take a relaxed approach to timings for a change, and we arrived at 10:35. The nice people at the registration tent promptly informed us that it was supposed to be a 10:30 start but had been delayed. My subsequent panic attack only slightly delayed the process of getting changed, and we were soon off on a loop around Burbage, Higgar Tor, and the top of Padley Gorge.

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I got stuck in the pack on the way up to the quarry at Burbage South to begin with, and then over-compensated once free and shot off too quickly for a few minutes. I calmed down along Burbage North, and held a reasonable pace for the rest of the way. I usually lose places on the downhills, and make them up on ascents, but even managed to fend off challengers on the few proper descents. The final 400m field started with some horrible tussocks that almost finished me off, but a chap from Steel City Striders saw I was flagging and kindly encouraged me to the finish line. It was hot, and hard work, but I felt reasonably strong (which was surprising, given my lethargy the weekend before).

Jonny and Greg sort out post-race refreshment at Longshaw. © Haydn Williams 2012

Jonny and Greg sort out post-race refreshment at Longshaw. © Haydn Williams 2012

 This was my first race in a Barrow vest, and thankfully it seems I managed to avoid bringing shame upon the club! With the results now out, I got 20th position out of 143 runners (14% by my usual rating system). I was also very pleased to beat first lady, as I've never done that before and have been trying for a while!

Longshaw Sheep Dog Trials - the longest continuously-running trials in the country, apparently. © Haydn Williams 2012

Longshaw Sheep Dog Trials – the longest continuously-running trials in the country, apparently. © Haydn Williams 2012

With the race over, and sterling performances by the other three guys too, we spent a bit of time variously eating ice cream (Ben), drinking beer (Jonny and Greg) and being incredibly impressed by the discipline of the sheep dogs (me). We were then back in the car and off to Curbar, where we'd arranged to meet Brannock and Robby for some climbing. I'd also hastily texted professional photographer Alex the night before, to let him know that he might be able to get some climbing shots he wanted.

Peapod (HVS 5b), with Baslow Edge beyond. © Haydn Williams 2012

Peapod (HVS 5b), with Baslow Edge beyond. © Haydn Williams 2012

Post-race lethargy set in soon enough, so bouldering was the order of the day. We started at Trackside, and I slowly began to remember how to climb, and we then made our way up to find Robby in-situ seconding Peapod. After some up-and-downing one member of the team eventually managed to second it (well done Greg!) and we finished the afternoon with a bit more bouldering at the Mini Walls area.

Brannock at Mini Walls on Curbar. © Alex Hyde 2012

Brannock at Mini Walls on Curbar. © Alex Hyde 2012

As the sun began to dip, Alex bade us farewell, and we lit a barbecue to finish off an excellent day in style. We were treated to a stunning sunset, providing a fitting end to a day which crammed in everything that this year's wet summer should have been.

Sunset over Curbar. © Haydn Williams 2012

Sunset over Curbar. © Haydn Williams 2012

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Maximal efficiency

Less than twenty-four hours in Snowdonia…how to make the best use of my limited time?

I get to the caravan at 18:30, and an hour later have been dropped at Pen y Pass. A later start for running than I'd usually like, but it has the welcome effect of meaning that Snowdon is nice and quiet. Over Y Lliwedd – still warm, even in the breeze, to Bwlch Ciliau, and then down into Cwm Tregalan in fading light. A hundred yards from my eventual campsite, on boggy ground, I step on what I think is a rock. It turns out to be a deep pool, into which I fall waist deep. The muggy evening actually makes this amusing, rather than potentially hypothermic, and after  pitching the tent I have a quick bath in the river while dinner bubbles away on the stove.

Cwm Tregalan - a fine campsite. Unless you're a National Park warden, in which case I'm not even sure where this is.  © Haydn Williams 2012

Cwm Tregalan – a fine campsite. Unless you're a National Park warden, in which case I'm not even sure where this is. © Haydn Williams 2012

Saturday dawns bright, as the forecast suggested, but hazy. A little breakfast and then I'm moving quickly over to Bwlch Cwm Llan and then more slowly upwards to the summit of Yr Aran. A quick blast now down to Beddgelert. It's further than I remember, and the added conundrum of avoiding a herd of cows adds to my time. Great views over the western edge of the park, nonetheless.

Back at the caravan by 09:00, I shower and head over to Ogwen. I know Gary's around here somewhere, and sure enough I'm confronted by his camper van as I round the corner by the MRT base. I pull over and leg it up to Tryfan Bach, where Gary's giving a lesson in belaying to his cousin. We get up a couple of routes in a very enjoyable and chilled out manner – it feels good to climb again, as I've focussed a lot on running lately. A dash back to the car, and then it's the monotony of the A55, pleasantly broken up by visits to some friends and then my brother.

So that's running, camping, climbing, and visits to two sets each of friends and family, all within a day. Satisfyingly efficient, and lots of fun.

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