Posts Tagged Parsley Fern Gully

Snowdonia Solos

Phil and I marched into upper Cwm Glas yesterday morning, in the hope of climbing The Ramp (II,*). The presence of large volumes of cloud meant that we didn't even try to find the route, which meanders across the length of the cwm. Instead we headed for Parsley Fern Left-Hand (II,**), a more well-defined line which turned out to be a fantastic climb. Great snow, a nice steep angle without getting silly, and a couple of nice icy steps.

Phil on Parsley Fern Left-Hand (II,**). Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

Phil on Parsley Fern Left-Hand (II,**). Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

Moving solo proved to be very efficient; we'd topped out by 10:00 and were back at the car at midday having come down the Pyg Track. Not wanting to waste the afternoon, we drove around to Ogwen to tick off another climb which has been on my "To Do" list for a while. At 250m long, Banana Gully (I,**) is a big route for Snowdonia, and takes a striking line up the front of Y Garn. Another efficient raid meant we'd topped out on Y Garn less than two hours later. The snow was marginally less solid than on Clogwyn y Ddysgyl, but on easy ground it didn't take away from the enjoyment of such a relatively long route.

At the top of the Pyg Track zig-zags. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

At the top of the Pyg Track zig-zags. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

The rigours of yesterday took their toll and neither of us were particularly energetic this morning. We headed around to Cwm Fynnon Lloer, a location I'd not climbed in before, and proceeded to wander around in thick cloud for twenty minutes, trying to decide where our potential routes were. With the recent good weather there were footprints everywhere, which didn't help, and (having missed everything else) we eventually found ourselves at The Headwall (I). Another 250m route, this developed from patchy snow cover low down to plenty of thick stuff higher up, albeit not properly consolidated. I've never climbed a winter route without crampons before, but the nature of the snow meant that kicking steps was easy and secure; we started walking up a shallow slope and just continued to the top without ever needing anything more pointy than an axe.

Banana Gully (I,**), the snowy line to the right of the summit, gets its name from... well, you can figure it out. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

Banana Gully (I,**), the snowy line to the right of the summit, gets its name from... well, you can figure it out. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

We descended the East Ridge of Pen yr Ole Wen in good time, and I was pretty chuffed to spot the wild Carneddau ponies on the way down; despite having been up on the range many times, I've never seen them before. The traditional stop at Rhug for a burger on the way home finished a great weekend off nicely.

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Parsley Fern again

Back to Parsley Fern Gully (I,***) this morning, for James' first proper winter route and my consolation for not going on the MPS Winter Skills trip. The wind was a bit mental on the walk in, but soon calmed down once we were in the cwm. The snow's incredible at the moment, and it was a nice solo all the way. There's a bit of a cornice, but it seems pretty solid and is avoidable on the left anyway.

<strong>James enjoying his first snowy outing.</strong><br />Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

James enjoying his first snowy outing.
Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

Ridiculously windy on top – I've since heard that gusts of 100mph were recorded at Clogwyn station! We walked back down the Llanberis path, past several people in trainers – a bit of a worry, given conditions up there. By the time we got back to the car at Gwastadnant, streams on the Glyderau side of the pass which had been running free this morning had started freezing well, right down to the road. Hopefully with some more cold and a bit of snow forecast for this week, conditions will hang around a bit longer.

<strong>Clogwyn y  Ddysgyl. Parsley Fern Gully is the big gully towards the right of the shot. The stream at the bottom is Sargeant's Gully.</strong><br />Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

Clogwyn y Ddysgyl. Parsley Fern Gully is the big gully towards the right of the shot. The stream at the bottom is Sargeant's Gully.
Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

Photos in the Gallery.

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Water ice intro

Earlier this week I managed to snatch an impromptu couple of days playing around on the frozen streams in the shadow of Crib y Ddysgyl. With the good conditions, Sunday was very busy – but on Monday I soloed two routes and had the entire place to myself.

Having been cheated out of what I'd hoped would be at least a couple of winter routes in Fort William a couple of days previously, I persuaded James to accompany me to Snowdonia on Sunday. The aim was to climb some water ice, given that my only such experience to date was a foray with Hamish. We planned to check out Sargeant's Gully (II,**) and Parsley Fern Fully (I) on Cyrn Las and Clogwyn y Ddysgyl respectively. With an early start from Chester on Sunday, we found Sargeant's Gully in good nick with lots of ice. We also found seven other parties on it, all of whom arrived within about ten minutes of us!

<strong>The easier bottom section of Sargeant's Gully.</strong><br />Copyright James Devine 2009.

The easier bottom section of Sargeant's Gully.
Copyright James Devine 2009.

The original plan was to inspect Sargeant's on the way up to Parsley Fern, the idea being that we'd start actually climbing on a simple Grade I and just have a look at Sargeant's to get an idea of Grade II terrain. However, the bottom section of the route is quite friendly, so we let all the competent people head up, and then spent some time placing screws and generally getting used to proper ice.

<strong>Walking axes - just say no, kids.</strong><br />Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

Walking axes - just say no, kids.
Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

As we reached the gully proper, our lack of suitable equipment started to become apparent – it was clear that seconding with a pair of walking axes just wasn't feasible, so we bailed off to the side. Even so, it was a useful session to build on my rather limited experience, and to give James a first taste of swinging an axe.

The next day, in a fit of enthusiasm, I returned to find a sprinkling of snow and quite a lot more ice on Sargeant's than the previous day. The aim was still to make it up Parsley Fern Gully, but this time solo as James had to work.

<strong>Cwm Glas. Parsley Fern is the central line.</strong><br />Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

Cwm Glas. Parsley Fern is the central line.
Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

I hadn't been able to get a guide book, and so didn't really know much about my proposed route, Parsley Fern Gully (I). I knew even less about Sinister Gully (III), but stood in Cwm Glas, that looked to have more ice on the bottom section, and to be more fun.

The lower reaches of Sinister Gully (III). Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

The lower reaches of Sinister Gully (III).
Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

On a whim, I took it, and it did indeed prove to be fun. Granted, it was a little intimidating once I was up there. However, the only way out was back down, and that wasn't really an option by the time I'd realised it was getting a bit hairy. The gradient eventually eases off before the really hard bit, so I moved across to Parsley Fern Gully at that point. I joined that line just below the point where Parsley Fern Left-Hand (II) splits off – it looked fun, but after the excitement of soloing the first half of Sinister Gully, I plumped for the normal line. It was a mix of bomber neve (which I was quite relieved to see) and water ice, with the odd steep ice step, and then a nice stretch of neve to the top ridge line.

<strong>View down Parsley Fern Gully.</strong><br />Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

View down Parsley Fern Gully.
Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

Once at the top, I walked down Crib y Ddysgyl and the cloud quickly cleared to give blue skies and sunshine. While not exactly pushing the boundaries of winter climbing in the UK, I'm quite pleased with the result. It was a very useful couple of days, with some valuable lessons about water ice, reading a guide book before you set out, and how inadequate petrol station croissants are for lunch.

Photos are now online in my new gallery; click here to view.

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