Posts Tagged Poland

Cracking Kraków

A Ryanair fanfare signalled a flight without any major disaster, and welcomed us to Kraków on Wednesday. We had crossed the border into Poland a couple of times when we visited Slovakia a couple of years ago, but this was our first proper visit.

The 14th-century town hall tower. © Haydn Williams 2011

The 14th-century town hall tower. © Haydn Williams 2011

After depositing our bags at the hotel, we wandered around the old town to see what it had to offer. You may be aware of my habit of visiting UNESCO World Heritage Sites; the old town was one of the original twelve first designated in 1978. There's plenty of history and – typically for eastern Europe – plenty of churches. The Church of St. Peter the Apostle in particular was full of bling…

Inside the Church of St. Peter the Apostle. It's rather plain on the outside, believe it or not. © Haydn Williams 2011

Inside the Church of St. Peter the Apostle. It's rather plain on the outside, believe it or not. © Haydn Williams 2011

For more up-to-date bling and other non-specific gangsta accoutrements, I was delighted to spot this shop…

"We need a name for the shop. What exactly is it that we sell?" © Haydn Williams 2011

"We need a name for the shop. What exactly is it that we sell?" © Haydn Williams 2011

A traditional meal of goulash and potato cake that evening proved the guide book correct in its assertion that Poles like meat and hearty (i.e. stodgy) food, and aren't too keen on veg. This was fine by me!

On Thursday it was time for UNESCO location number two – the Wielizcka Salt Mines. It's been worked since the thirteenth century and the miners there have decorated the entire place with statues of prominent figures both real and mythical.

Bust of King Kazimierz, carved from the salt which the Wieliczka mines are made of. © Haydn Williams 2011

Bust of King Kazimierz, carved from the salt which the Wieliczka mines are made of. © Haydn Williams 2011

The salt is 95% pure, rock solid and forms the entirety of the mine (I was expecting it to be soft and  crumbly veins running through other tougher rock). The tour guides even encourage you to lick the walls, but with more than a million visitors passing through each year we declined!

Blocks of solid salt forming the tunnel floors. © Haydn Williams 2011

Blocks of solid salt forming the tunnel floors. © Haydn Williams 2011

The original twelve UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Only ten more to go. © Haydn Williams 2011

The original twelve UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Only ten more to go. © Haydn Williams 2011

After returning to the city, we took a stroll to Wawel, the hill on which the Royal Castle and Cathedral sit. Climbing the cathedral tower gave a great view over the city, next to Zygmunt's Bell which has rung over 12 million times since being cast nearly 500 years ago, and weighs 1.8 tonnes. Impressive.

The impressive courtyard of the Royal Castle at Wawel. © Haydn Williams 2011

The impressive courtyard of the Royal Castle at Wawel. © Haydn Williams 2011

Friday was another UNESCO site, but not necessarily subject to the usual excitement since it was Auschwitz Birkenau, the German Nazi Concentration and Extermination Camp. Suffice to say that it's quite a sobering experience to walk the grounds and read the details of the horrors which took place there.

Auschwitz-I. © Haydn Williams 2011

Auschwitz-I. © Haydn Williams 2011

Auschwitz-I. © Haydn Williams 2011

Auschwitz-I. © Haydn Williams 2011

Auschwitz-I. © Haydn Williams 2011

Auschwitz-I. © Haydn Williams 2011

Anyway, that evening we ventured into the Christmas market in the main square of Kraków. It followed the standard recipe for such things – plenty of tasty-looking chocolate and sweets on offer – along with more esoteric produce including 2ft long wooden spoons and christmas tree baubles the size of melons!

St. Mary's Basilica in the main market square. © Haydn Williams 2011

St. Mary's Basilica in the main market square. © Haydn Williams 2011

Unfortunately the following morning entailed a train journey to the airport and a flight home, but I just had chance to nip out after breakfast and finish the trip with a picture on the only day on which it didn't rain…

The towers and spires of the historic cathedral and castle of Wawel at dawn. © Haydn Williams 2011

The towers and spires of the historic cathedral and castle of Wawel at dawn. © Haydn Williams 2011

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Slovakia

We've just spent a week and a half in Prague, Slovakia and had a quick trip to Poland too. That's four currencies in as many days, a situation I found mighty confusing. We started in Prague and took the train out to a town called Kutna Hora. I'll confess to inadvertantly purchasing first-class train tickets, meaning we got to travel in Czech luxury, even if it was all a bit retro.

<strong>First class, Czech style.</strong><br />Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

First class, Czech style.
Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

There's an ossuary at Kutna Hora containing the stacked bones of around 40,000 people, and the town is a UNESCO World Heritage site. This was the first of three heritage sites this trip, adding significantly to my running total. The whole town is very nice, offering a glimpse of the history and architecture seen in Prague, but without the crowds. I'd also highly recommend the silver museum with a trip down the mine.

We then took a sleeper train to Slovakia, based near the High Tatra mountains. The following few days saw us with plenty of possibilities, and we managed to get in some walking, a bit rafting (the sedate, "drift slowly down a river" kind), cycling and also got a trip on a Polish disco bus (Euro-trance on the stereo, blacked-out windows and lit entirely in blue).

<strong>The group on our way to the first chalet of the day.</strong><br />Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

The group on our way to the first chalet of the day.
Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

Spissky Hrad was the second World Heritage site of the trip, and it's honestly the most awesome castle ever. It's partially ruined, but it's basically what you imagined the perfect castle to be when you were about eight years old. There's a huge central tower and loads of outer bits to wander around. Ace.

<strong>Popradske pleso.</strong><br />Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

Popradske pleso.
Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

Dobsinska ice caves are a series of caves which, by some fluke of geography, remain at or below freezing all year. This means that all the water draining into them freezes and has built up over the last 7,000 years or so into a massive space-filling block up to 25m deep in places. It's a surreal experience to go from the heat outside into a crazy world of icicles (which, incidentally, are just screaming out for axes and crampons).

<strong>Descending a tunnel cut through the ice in Dobsinska Ice Cave.</strong><br />Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

Descending a tunnel cut through the ice in Dobsinska Ice Cave.
Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

Despite a 3-way UNESCO heritage site bonanza, I think the highlight of the holiday was the last night, which we spent in a five-star hotel in Prague. I knew it was going to be awesome when we arrived at 08:55 and the first thing they did was take us up to the restaurant and feed us cheesecake! We then delighted in the delicious complimentary finger food, massive DVD library, jacuzzi bath, and the utterly ridiculous "pillow menu", offering a selection of head-and-neck support options. Our driver arrived the next morning to take us to the airport in style, after which we came down to earth with a bump in the scrum for the Easyjet check-in desk.

In terms of photography, there wasn't that much potential as we weren't out and about at the right times of day, but there are a few pattern shots I'm reasonably pleased with. I also managed to get two shots of the moon at different locations, which seem to have worked out quite well. All photos are in the gallery now (but seem to be taking a long time load!).

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