Posts Tagged Snow

Ridge Raiders

[Sorry - just found this in my "Drafts" folder from before Christmas. Back when I was still full of naïve hope that I might actually get some winter routes in this year. I'm not bitter. Honest.]

Last weekend I found myself having to travel to my parents' house near Chester on Friday night, so I took the opportunity to grab a quick snowy round of Moel Siabod with James.

Given a strict timetable, we needed something easily accessible and fun, but not hard enough to involve ropes and associated faff. We settled on the east ridge of Moel Siabod, Daear Ddu (Grade I/II). The first early start of the season in the truck set us off towards Snowdonia, and I started playing with time lapse photography on the iPhone. Whilst still requiring some tinkering, the results were quite interesting (below). As we pulled into the car park at Capel, the unwanted sideways motion of the truck suggested it was a little icy. Having finally skidded our way into a parking spot, I jumped out and promptly fell flat on my back on the ice; you'll notice I appear only momentarily at the end of the time-lapse sequence, as I spent most of that time writhing around on the floor in a mixture of agony and hysterics.

Time lapse video. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

Nevertheless, a quick blast of christmas Mariah Carey on the radio soon sorted me out, and we set off up the horrifically steep tarmac road to the start of the hill proper. At about 08:30 we passed an old chap on his way down; his assessment of conditions higher up? "Grim". Excellent. There was surprisingly little snow low down, but as we passed through the old mine workings and crossed the cwm to the bottom of the ridge the cover increased steadily.

View towards Betws y Coed and the Conwy Valley. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

View towards Betws y Coed and the Conwy Valley. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

I've waxed lyrical about how much I love this ridge before, so I won't do it again. I had actually run this route a couple of weeks earlier (didn't get around to blogging about that one) and with the ludicrous weather in the intervening days it was a different prospect now. It was snowing heavily by this point, and with our increased height things were looking pretty white. With the consistenly low temperatures of the past couple of weeks, it was still all powdery and unconsolidated.

Moel Siabod looking snowy but fairly pleasant. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

Moel Siabod looking snowy but fairly pleasant. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

The ridge is graded as I/II apparently, but it really didn't feel like that at all. I think we took the most sporting line. Crampons and axes were definitely not required, with progress being made through a combination of brushing six inches of snow off holds, and kicking steps in slightly more consolidated cracks and corners. An hour later we were stood on the summit. The old bloke from earlier turned out to be completely wrong, as apart from all-round cloud and a stiff breeze it was fine up top. Given our impending deadline, we scuttled quickly down the north ridge (via the most amazingly accurate compass bearing I think I've ever taken).

Despite not needing any pointy implements, it was nice to get back out in the white stuff for the first time this year. There's a new Welsh winter guide out before Christmas so hopefully we'll be able to get out again soon!

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Well I névé!

I needed a break from house-breaking last week, so snuck off for some winter action in North Wales on Sunday and Monday. I ended up coming back early to do more house things, but had no real objections after an excellent day on Sunday.

Another early start from Chester, and another cruddy petrol station quiche for lunch because I forgot my sandwiches! We abandoned my car halfway up the Nant Ffrancon due to slow (and sometimes sideways) progress in the snow. The truck made light work of it all, and we soon found ourselves heading up to Cneifion.

Climbers below Clogwyn Du. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Climbers below Clogwyn Du. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

With snow pretty much everywhere, we had a good choice of routes. All the gullies down to Cneifion Arete were full, but we kept going up to the top end of the cwm. I fancied a Grade II, having not led anything at that grade since Sargeant's Gully with Chris a year ago. I'd also had my eye on Hidden Gully for a while, as it gets two stars and is described as a "hidden gem". On arrival, three teams were on Clogwyn Du and one set off up Hidden Gully ahead of us. We traversed across to the gully from Easy Route on great neve, which continued all the way up. Despite a continuous flow of spindrift, there was good climbing with a couple of short steep steps.

I was proper cold at this point.

I was proper cold at this point.

We roped up at the narrowing bit, and I led most of the way up. I got a couple of nuts in, but all the cracks needed clearing, and the rock was pretty rimed up. The climbing itself was pretty secure because the snow was so good, so it wasn't too much of an issue. I belayed just below the summit, and James took the lead for the last little pitch on reasonably steep snow.

Belay camaraderie is a remedy for being chilly. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

Belay camaraderie is a remedy for being chilly. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

James leading the top of Hidden Gully.  Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

James leading the top of Hidden Gully. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

The weather on the top was a bit breezy with poor visibility, so we descended Easy Route in the interests of speed. The plan was then to head lower and play on some of the easy gullies near Cneifion Arete. Tower Slabs had piqued my interest on a number of occasions, but at II/III I figured I had shied away from it with my natural sense of caution. With Hidden Gully proving so much fun, I got carried away and suggested we play around soloing the water ice at the bottom of Tower Slabs, possibly climbing as high as the snow terrace before heading back down. The first 5 metres or so really gave me the willies, I think as I'd not climbed proper ice for twelve months, but I soon got into the swing of things. On reaching the terrace the descent looked dodgy and we found ourselves on lovely neve. After a brief discussion we decided to carry on up; thus followed miles of perfect snow! Great placements first time with axes and crampons, a steep but not terrifying gradient, and a brilliant situation when the cloud occasionally cleared.

Wicked snow on Tower Slabs. Copyright James Devine 2010

Wicked snow on Tower Slabs. Copyright James Devine 2010

Once on top, we came down Easy Route again and back to the car. So, another step towards my aim of leading III by the end of the season (despite a distinct lack of days out) and it ended up being an accidental solo! There's a big thaw on now, but still snow in the high gullies and freezing levels predicted to be 200m – 300m for the next few days – maybe there'll be some more action again soon.

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Powdery powder

As the country slowly freezes, the mountains of the UK are floundering under a sea of unconsolidated powder snow. After a rather loose excursion up Tower Gully in Cwm Cneifion before christmas, James and I were back in the Glyderau on New Year's Day. There had been more snow over Christmas, so we (and everyone else) were staying clear of gullies. This meant ridges, and we chose to have a look at Y Gribin (II). Some bright spark decided it would be a good idea to approach from the Bochlwyd side of the ridge, on the basis that it had been wind-scoured for the past few days and caught morning sun, and therefore may have melted a little and consolidated a bit more than other places. How wrong that bright spark was.

Heading around Llyn Bochlwyd towards the False Gribin. Photo by James Devine. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Heading around Llyn Bochlwyd towards the False Gribin. Photo by James Devine. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

After wading through waist-deep powder we eventually made it up past the False Gribin and onto the ridge proper. The first bit of the route was nice and easy, but as the climbing got harder so it seemed to quickly become swamped under a sea of powder too. We followed the crest for a while, until I found myself stood at the top of a big slope of powder, poised to send it down onto some innocents on the path below. Not fancying incurring much collateral damage, we finally gave up and retreated back to the path. Turns out we weren't that far from the top anyway, but the remaining few metres of the path still weren't terribly solid. Once on the top, we plodded down Devil's Kitchen and into sheer chaos in Cwm Idwal.

James approaching the ridge from the football pitch. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

James approaching the ridge from the football pitch. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

The snow was rubbish for climbing, but perfect for making snowballs, sledging and playing around, which is what most of the population of North Wales seemed to be having great fun doing. I even saw one child who'd managed to climb halfway up the first pitch of Ordinary Route (Diff) on the slabs and bum slide back down again, it was so blanketed with snow! There were climbers all over the ice routes, which looked a bit fatter than the previous week. Unfortunately while a lot of people are having great fun on hard mixed routes (Black Ladders) and mid-grade ice (Idwal), we're somewhat limited by our lack of experience / 'bumbly' status and are desperately hoping for some freeze-thaw cycles to bring the snowy gullies into condition!

Snowdon massif and the coast from the top of the Glyers. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Snowdon massif and the coast from the top of the Glyers. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Anyway, whilst not a total success in that we didn't stick to the desired route all the way up, and it possibly wasn't the best route choice by me, it was a good day out and keeps us busy until the things we really want to do become climbable!

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