Posts Tagged Trad

Burbage к северу

Burbage North was the location for an excursion on Saturday. G kindly agreed to spend the day helping me get back into the swing of leading on rock again. We started the day on Steptoe (M), moved onto Little Plumb (Diff) and then I stepped up to Monkey Corner, Slanting Crack and Triangle Buttress Arete (all VDiffs, *). There was a lot of faffing and much deliberation about gear placements; it became clear that my problem with leading is trusting my gear, rather than a physical inability to do the moves. Anyway, I got up them all in the end without any falls, although G did provide some beta regarding gear when required. A very useful exericse, and hopefully I won't be so worried about getting back on something of similar difficulty next time I'm out.

G on Overhanging Buttress Arete (Mod, *). Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

G on Overhanging Buttress Arete (Mod, *). Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

We had a rather gear-tastic day too, finding a guidebook, a hat and five very dodgy-looking eastern European cams. We shamelessly used the guidebook instead of our own for the day (it being more detailed), and are now trying to track down some comrade willing to own up to owning the rusty, battered death-cams.

"You expect me to survive a lead fall on those dodgy Russian cams?"

"You expect me to survive a lead fall on those dodgy eastern-bloc cams?"

"No Mr. Bond, I expect you to die."

"No Mr. Bond, I expect you to die."

After spending a lot of time standing on ledges willing myself to move up a few inches, we decided some more rapid movement was required, and went for a run. We did an hour's loop from Burbage bridge down the edges to the top of Padley Gorge and then back along the top of Millstone and over Higgar Tor. I'd not been out for three weeks, so it blew the cobwebs away and reminded me I really need to step up a gear if I manage to get a place on the Nine Edges (fingers crossed).

I'm not sure ice creams are touted as a recovery food, but there was a van at Burbage bridge and it would have been rude not to oblige. Suitably cooled down, we headed home. Possibly the last dry day out for a while, the way the weather forecast looks at the moment!

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Bamford

Yesterday saw my first trip to Bamford, and the same for Gareth and Jamie. It's made up of a few different sections spread out along the edge, but the rock on each bit is really broken up and disjointed so there's loads of lines all over the place. The first thing that my partners in crime did was slap me on a Severe 4a, Bamford Wall, without telling me what it was. I got halfway up  on lead before bailing. That said, I was pleased with the first half, which I didn't really want to do in the first place, if I'm honest. I was also quite relieved when they revealed it was harder than anything I've ever led previously; if it had turned out to be a Mod or something then I wouldn't have been impressed!

G takes over on Bamford Wall (S, 4a). Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

G takes over on Bamford Wall (S, 4a). Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

After that Jamie led Short Curve (HVD) and Recess Crack (VDiff). Gareth then did something involving finger jams and suggestions that it wasn't as hard as the guidebook reckoned (Bilberry Crack, VS 5a). Despite a bit of dampness early on, the sun broke through around mid-morning and the rock was perfectly dry for most of the day.

Scoping out Short Curve (HVD). Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

Scoping out Short Curve (HVD). Copyright Haydn Williams 2009

As usual when us three make it to a crag together, I don't think it could be described as the most efficient session ever witnessed on grit. That, however, is not the point – it was a lot of fun, conditions were great, and we finished the day in true style on a Mod first climbed in 1900 (Easy Chimney). You can't really ask for much more, can you?

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Harborough

On the first dry day in what felt like years, Jamie, Gareth and I took the opportunity to head over to Harborough again. We were a bit pushed for time, but managed to squeeze in a lead each: Jamie did Trident Eliminate (HS 4b), Gareth did Trident Face (VDiff) and I did Trident Groove (VDiff).

Haydn leading 'Trident Groove' (VDiff).

Haydn leading 'Trident Groove' (VDiff).

I also got to test out my new 'climbing camera', a Mamiya U obtained for a whopping £5 on eBay, and purchased specifically to drag up routes and use in the rain. It seems to have performed admirably for landscapes, and sufficiently for portraits (it's paired with Fuji Velvia Pro400H transparency film for these shots).

Sunset over Steeple Arete.

Sunset over Steeple Arete.

Good fun was had by all, but it became abundantly clear that the evenings are drawing in now, and there won't be much more "after work climbing" this year.

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Harborough Rocks

Harborough Rocks (or Harboro, if that's what floats your boat) was the destination yesterday with Jamie, Gareth and Martin. Being based in Nottingham, I tend to automatically head for God's own rock, gritstone; Harborough is dolomitic limestone and the first time I've climbed on such crazy rock. Turns out, it's flipping brilliant.

Steeple Arete, Harborough Rocks

Jamie and I climbed together, and he was leading again – my mental barrier about leading is still firmly in place! Yet again, a day with no slips, falls or horrible accidents, but I'm still convinced I can't lead anything yet. Trident Arete (VDiff) is a brilliant route, and Pedestal Crack (S 4a) was a nice finish to the day. An inspection of "Easy Chimney" (Mod) to scope out its potential as a simple first lead actually turned into to an impromptu solo – that's kind of a result, surely?  :)

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