Posts Tagged Tryfan Bach

Autumn Adventures

Gales. Tent calamity. Crag swag. Underground. Climbing. Def Leppard. Climbing. Hostel. Rain. Scrambling. Hip-hop. Pretty much in that order.

 

Friday:
12:00 – The weekend approaches. Must be time to go to Snowdonia.
13:00 – I head home from work, my head buzzing with the thought of pushing the boundaries of trad climbing in the UK.
14:00 – Professional adventurer Phil Peel arrives in good time, and we head west discussing the glories offered by 300th ascents of VDiff mountain routes.
18:00 – We pull into the campsite at the bottom of Tryfan, and in a whirl of efficiency whip up our domicile for the weekend. Phil describes it as 'the beast'; it sleeps four and is probably big enough to hold a party in. It's getting a bit breezy.

Saturday:
01:00 – I awake to a slightly wobbly tent, and weather which has progressed beyond 'breezy'.
04:00 – I've now been outside to replace guy lines three times. Fortunately no-one else is around to see me in my pyjamas.
05:10 – A hefty gust snaps our four tent poles into seven, bringing it down around us. Phil's response is to open a penguin bar.

Is it supposed to look like that? We find the limits of the tent at five o'clock in the morning. © Haydn Williams 2011

Is it supposed to look like that? We find the limits of the tent at five o'clock in the morning. © Haydn Williams 2011

05:30 – All gear and tent are transferred to the car. Sleep deprivation makes this amusing rather than irritating.
06:30 – We arrive at Tanygrisiau, gateway to the Moelwyns. I brew up in the car park, and nibble on a Thornton's Alpini bar for breakfast. Classy.

The advantages of a forced early start: watching sunrise over south Snowdonia while the kettle boils. © Haydn Williams 2011

The advantages of a forced early start: watching sunrise over south Snowdonia while the kettle boils. © Haydn Williams 2011

08:00 – The proposed first route of the day seems to start up a slimy wet display of vegetation. We abort and walk around to route 2.
08:30 – This proves to be a good decision, as we find an awesome tunnel on an incline in the old mine workings. Phil discovers the first crag swag of the weekend – a Camelbak bottle which he refuses to take possession of, on the grounds that it might have contained something unsavoury at some point.

Tunnel on the line of an old incline, dropping all the way back down to Tanygrisiau. © Haydn Williams 2011

Tunnel on the line of an old incline, dropping all the way back down to Tanygrisiau. © Haydn Williams 2011

09:00 – The awesome tunnel leads to an awesome old mine with some awesome caves which we're too scared to fully explore.

A pretty hefty old working. © Haydn Williams 2011

A pretty hefty old working. © Haydn Williams 2011

09:30 – Finally get some climbing done. Phil leads Cave Arete (VDiff) in blustery conditions, including an exposed top section. Walkers across the Moelwynau hear his whoop of joy on topping out.

Phil wedged behind a flake on Cave Arete. © Haydn Williams 2011

Phil wedged behind a flake on Cave Arete. © Haydn Williams 2011

13:00 – We return to the car via more exciting mines. Def Leppard subsequently ask us to pour some sugar on them.
14:30 – We sort out accomodation for the night, then head to Tryfan Bach for a bit.
17:00 – Arrive at youth hostel in Betws y Coed. Feel old when kids talk about Reef like it's something Noah drank on the ark.

Sunday:
06:45 – Woken by alarm of person in opposite hostel bed. Said person is not woken by their own alarm.
08:00 – Breakfast and rain assessment. Very wet.
09:00 – Head for everyone's favourite wet-weather walk, the east ridge of Moel Siabod.

I've shown it a million times before on here, but I still love it. Daear Ddu ridge on Moel Siabod. © Haydn Williams 2011

I've shown it a million times before on here, but I still love it. Daear Ddu ridge on Moel Siabod. © Haydn Williams 2011

10:15 – Phil emits pleasing expletive on being confronted with said ridge, as per protocol for everyone I drag up there.
11:30 – Summit. Bearing taken from the summit to get out of clag, as per protocol for every visit I have up there.
12:30 – Discussion re: the merits of hip-hop, and which member of N.W.A. has been convicted of the most serious criminal offence.
13:30 – We get back to car.  Decipher NLMC. Head home.
17:30 – Party splits at Loughborough station. Weekend assessed as very successful.

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Tryvan Bach

A couple of weeks ago James and I spent the day climbing on Tryfan Bach. But never mind that, he's only gone and bought a climbing van!!

More car-related shenanigans meant another trip to my parents', and it would have been rude not to go out somewhere. We spent a very pleasant day on Tryfan Bach, helped by the fact that it wasn't particularly busy. I got over-confident and tried to run the three-pitch Little Tryfan Arete (Diff, ***) into a single pitch, but had to abandon that plan and scuttle off to easier ground when I realised I'd run out of QDs.

James setting up a belay somewhere on Tryfan Bach. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

James setting up a belay somewhere on Tryfan Bach. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Anyway, the big news is James' van. It a massive posh Merc, and he's already boarded the back out. He reckons it's for work, but I can see through his thinly-veiled excuses. All it needs now is a vent in the roof and maybe a side window and it'll be awesome for climbing weekends! Fans of the faithful old L200 truck needn't worry though – apparently there are no plans to get rid of that just yet (it's incredibly useful in winter when everything else gets stuck!).

The new van gets its first taste of Snowdonia. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

The new van gets its first taste of Snowdonia. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

As we left the crag at the end of the day we tried to think up a name for the new van. Despite some sterling suggestions, nothing quite seemed to fit. However, when we got back to the layby James rightfully pointed out that it already had a name…

That settles it - the van's called Ewan. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

That settles it - the van's called Ewan. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

So, after our first rock day of the year, we toddled off home. Here's to plenty of future adventures with Uan…

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Tryfan-fest

Last weekend's MPS trip was Tryfan-tastic, continuing my recent trend of visiting nowhere else in Snowdonia.

Saturday was the first time I've been out since April, so I wanted to get on easy routes in boots to get myself back into the swing of things before winter starts. Sean, Josh and I pootled up four routes on Tryfan Bach in conditions starting at "wet" and ending at "damp". First we went up the Mod / Scramble that I've done a few times before, and then I led a Diff which I think was Crack 4. The first pitch was fine, but on the second I trended off to the right and ended up in Chimney Crack; I think the sensible route was to carry on up the slab even though there was less gear. Nevertheless, the required move (described by Sean as "a bit sketchy") certainly got my heart racing and was a good first play around after six months off. Sean then led something with a lovely top pitch on Mossy Slab, and we finished with Chimney Crack, another Diff. The day was designed as a confidence-building exercise, and worked well in that respect. We also finished in time to get ice cream in Llanberis.  :)

<strong>First pitch of Crack 4.</strong><br />Copyright Sean Clancy 2009.

First pitch of Crack 4.Copyright Sean Clancy 2009.

Sunday dawned dull and rainy, so a group of us opted for the North Ridge of Tryfan, always a safe choice in cruddy weather. It was Chris' birthday, but I get the distinct impression he spent it cold and wet! He did get presented with a lovely specimen of golden syrup cake on the top of Tryfan though, so hopefully that helped salvage the day. On reaching Bwlch Tryfan I left the rest of the group and went up past Llyn Caseg-fraith to Y Foel Goch. From here I did my first actual run in the hills, down to Capel. It wasn't very far, and was distinctly boggy, but was great fun. In other good news, I wasn't crippled the next day, so fell-running here I come!

<strong>Birthday boy looking a bit sinister on the south summit.</strong><br />Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

Birthday boy looking a bit sinister on the south summit.Copyright Haydn Williams 2009.

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