Posts Tagged Winter climbing

Snowdonia Solos

Phil and I marched into upper Cwm Glas yesterday morning, in the hope of climbing The Ramp (II,*). The presence of large volumes of cloud meant that we didn't even try to find the route, which meanders across the length of the cwm. Instead we headed for Parsley Fern Left-Hand (II,**), a more well-defined line which turned out to be a fantastic climb. Great snow, a nice steep angle without getting silly, and a couple of nice icy steps.

Phil on Parsley Fern Left-Hand (II,**). Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

Phil on Parsley Fern Left-Hand (II,**). Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

Moving solo proved to be very efficient; we'd topped out by 10:00 and were back at the car at midday having come down the Pyg Track. Not wanting to waste the afternoon, we drove around to Ogwen to tick off another climb which has been on my "To Do" list for a while. At 250m long, Banana Gully (I,**) is a big route for Snowdonia, and takes a striking line up the front of Y Garn. Another efficient raid meant we'd topped out on Y Garn less than two hours later. The snow was marginally less solid than on Clogwyn y Ddysgyl, but on easy ground it didn't take away from the enjoyment of such a relatively long route.

At the top of the Pyg Track zig-zags. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

At the top of the Pyg Track zig-zags. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

The rigours of yesterday took their toll and neither of us were particularly energetic this morning. We headed around to Cwm Fynnon Lloer, a location I'd not climbed in before, and proceeded to wander around in thick cloud for twenty minutes, trying to decide where our potential routes were. With the recent good weather there were footprints everywhere, which didn't help, and (having missed everything else) we eventually found ourselves at The Headwall (I). Another 250m route, this developed from patchy snow cover low down to plenty of thick stuff higher up, albeit not properly consolidated. I've never climbed a winter route without crampons before, but the nature of the snow meant that kicking steps was easy and secure; we started walking up a shallow slope and just continued to the top without ever needing anything more pointy than an axe.

Banana Gully (I,**), the snowy line to the right of the summit, gets its name from... well, you can figure it out. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

Banana Gully (I,**), the snowy line to the right of the summit, gets its name from... well, you can figure it out. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

We descended the East Ridge of Pen yr Ole Wen in good time, and I was pretty chuffed to spot the wild Carneddau ponies on the way down; despite having been up on the range many times, I've never seen them before. The traditional stop at Rhug for a burger on the way home finished a great weekend off nicely.

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Well I névé!

I needed a break from house-breaking last week, so snuck off for some winter action in North Wales on Sunday and Monday. I ended up coming back early to do more house things, but had no real objections after an excellent day on Sunday.

Another early start from Chester, and another cruddy petrol station quiche for lunch because I forgot my sandwiches! We abandoned my car halfway up the Nant Ffrancon due to slow (and sometimes sideways) progress in the snow. The truck made light work of it all, and we soon found ourselves heading up to Cneifion.

Climbers below Clogwyn Du. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Climbers below Clogwyn Du. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

With snow pretty much everywhere, we had a good choice of routes. All the gullies down to Cneifion Arete were full, but we kept going up to the top end of the cwm. I fancied a Grade II, having not led anything at that grade since Sargeant's Gully with Chris a year ago. I'd also had my eye on Hidden Gully for a while, as it gets two stars and is described as a "hidden gem". On arrival, three teams were on Clogwyn Du and one set off up Hidden Gully ahead of us. We traversed across to the gully from Easy Route on great neve, which continued all the way up. Despite a continuous flow of spindrift, there was good climbing with a couple of short steep steps.

I was proper cold at this point.

I was proper cold at this point.

We roped up at the narrowing bit, and I led most of the way up. I got a couple of nuts in, but all the cracks needed clearing, and the rock was pretty rimed up. The climbing itself was pretty secure because the snow was so good, so it wasn't too much of an issue. I belayed just below the summit, and James took the lead for the last little pitch on reasonably steep snow.

Belay camaraderie is a remedy for being chilly. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

Belay camaraderie is a remedy for being chilly. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

James leading the top of Hidden Gully.  Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

James leading the top of Hidden Gully. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

The weather on the top was a bit breezy with poor visibility, so we descended Easy Route in the interests of speed. The plan was then to head lower and play on some of the easy gullies near Cneifion Arete. Tower Slabs had piqued my interest on a number of occasions, but at II/III I figured I had shied away from it with my natural sense of caution. With Hidden Gully proving so much fun, I got carried away and suggested we play around soloing the water ice at the bottom of Tower Slabs, possibly climbing as high as the snow terrace before heading back down. The first 5 metres or so really gave me the willies, I think as I'd not climbed proper ice for twelve months, but I soon got into the swing of things. On reaching the terrace the descent looked dodgy and we found ourselves on lovely neve. After a brief discussion we decided to carry on up; thus followed miles of perfect snow! Great placements first time with axes and crampons, a steep but not terrifying gradient, and a brilliant situation when the cloud occasionally cleared.

Wicked snow on Tower Slabs. Copyright James Devine 2010

Wicked snow on Tower Slabs. Copyright James Devine 2010

Once on top, we came down Easy Route again and back to the car. So, another step towards my aim of leading III by the end of the season (despite a distinct lack of days out) and it ended up being an accidental solo! There's a big thaw on now, but still snow in the high gullies and freezing levels predicted to be 200m – 300m for the next few days – maybe there'll be some more action again soon.

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Wading up Crowden

Paul, G and I took a wander up Crowden Clough in the Peak District on Sunday, in the hope of finding some ice to climb. Alas, all we found was snow. Lots and lots of snow, with Crowden basically banked out and walkable all the way up. Nevertheless, we still managed a bit of  a play about, even if it didn't involve spiky tools, and had a lot of fun messing about with the mini-cornices which had formed over massive soft drifts. Well, that's enough waffle; I know you only come here to look at the pictures anyway.

Paul checking out the mixed action in Crowden. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Paul checking out the mixed action in Crowden. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

G bravely forcing a way up most extreme line of snow steps. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

G bravely forcing a way up most extreme line of snow steps. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Squirming around at the top of Crowden. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Squirming around at the top of Crowden. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Playing "Guess what's solid and what's covering a 5ft hole" in Crowden Clough. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Playing "Guess what's solid and what's covering a 5ft hole" in Crowden Clough. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Fun with cornices. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Fun with cornices. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

More cornice-bashing. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

More cornice-bashing. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

When good cornices go bad. Paul takes a ride as the whole lot collapses. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

When good cornices go bad. Paul takes a ride as the whole lot collapses. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Avalanche debris? In the Peak? The aftermath of Paul's ride. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Avalanche debris? In the Peak? The aftermath of Paul's ride. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Ploughing our way out down Grindsbrook Clough. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Ploughing our way out down Grindsbrook Clough. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

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Powdery powder

As the country slowly freezes, the mountains of the UK are floundering under a sea of unconsolidated powder snow. After a rather loose excursion up Tower Gully in Cwm Cneifion before christmas, James and I were back in the Glyderau on New Year's Day. There had been more snow over Christmas, so we (and everyone else) were staying clear of gullies. This meant ridges, and we chose to have a look at Y Gribin (II). Some bright spark decided it would be a good idea to approach from the Bochlwyd side of the ridge, on the basis that it had been wind-scoured for the past few days and caught morning sun, and therefore may have melted a little and consolidated a bit more than other places. How wrong that bright spark was.

Heading around Llyn Bochlwyd towards the False Gribin. Photo by James Devine. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Heading around Llyn Bochlwyd towards the False Gribin. Photo by James Devine. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

After wading through waist-deep powder we eventually made it up past the False Gribin and onto the ridge proper. The first bit of the route was nice and easy, but as the climbing got harder so it seemed to quickly become swamped under a sea of powder too. We followed the crest for a while, until I found myself stood at the top of a big slope of powder, poised to send it down onto some innocents on the path below. Not fancying incurring much collateral damage, we finally gave up and retreated back to the path. Turns out we weren't that far from the top anyway, but the remaining few metres of the path still weren't terribly solid. Once on the top, we plodded down Devil's Kitchen and into sheer chaos in Cwm Idwal.

James approaching the ridge from the football pitch. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

James approaching the ridge from the football pitch. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

The snow was rubbish for climbing, but perfect for making snowballs, sledging and playing around, which is what most of the population of North Wales seemed to be having great fun doing. I even saw one child who'd managed to climb halfway up the first pitch of Ordinary Route (Diff) on the slabs and bum slide back down again, it was so blanketed with snow! There were climbers all over the ice routes, which looked a bit fatter than the previous week. Unfortunately while a lot of people are having great fun on hard mixed routes (Black Ladders) and mid-grade ice (Idwal), we're somewhat limited by our lack of experience / 'bumbly' status and are desperately hoping for some freeze-thaw cycles to bring the snowy gullies into condition!

Snowdon massif and the coast from the top of the Glyers. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Snowdon massif and the coast from the top of the Glyers. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010

Anyway, whilst not a total success in that we didn't stick to the desired route all the way up, and it possibly wasn't the best route choice by me, it was a good day out and keeps us busy until the things we really want to do become climbable!

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