Posts Tagged Y Garn

Snowdonia Solos

Phil and I marched into upper Cwm Glas yesterday morning, in the hope of climbing The Ramp (II,*). The presence of large volumes of cloud meant that we didn't even try to find the route, which meanders across the length of the cwm. Instead we headed for Parsley Fern Left-Hand (II,**), a more well-defined line which turned out to be a fantastic climb. Great snow, a nice steep angle without getting silly, and a couple of nice icy steps.

Phil on Parsley Fern Left-Hand (II,**). Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

Phil on Parsley Fern Left-Hand (II,**). Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

Moving solo proved to be very efficient; we'd topped out by 10:00 and were back at the car at midday having come down the Pyg Track. Not wanting to waste the afternoon, we drove around to Ogwen to tick off another climb which has been on my "To Do" list for a while. At 250m long, Banana Gully (I,**) is a big route for Snowdonia, and takes a striking line up the front of Y Garn. Another efficient raid meant we'd topped out on Y Garn less than two hours later. The snow was marginally less solid than on Clogwyn y Ddysgyl, but on easy ground it didn't take away from the enjoyment of such a relatively long route.

At the top of the Pyg Track zig-zags. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

At the top of the Pyg Track zig-zags. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

The rigours of yesterday took their toll and neither of us were particularly energetic this morning. We headed around to Cwm Fynnon Lloer, a location I'd not climbed in before, and proceeded to wander around in thick cloud for twenty minutes, trying to decide where our potential routes were. With the recent good weather there were footprints everywhere, which didn't help, and (having missed everything else) we eventually found ourselves at The Headwall (I). Another 250m route, this developed from patchy snow cover low down to plenty of thick stuff higher up, albeit not properly consolidated. I've never climbed a winter route without crampons before, but the nature of the snow meant that kicking steps was easy and secure; we started walking up a shallow slope and just continued to the top without ever needing anything more pointy than an axe.

Banana Gully (I,**), the snowy line to the right of the summit, gets its name from... well, you can figure it out. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

Banana Gully (I,**), the snowy line to the right of the summit, gets its name from... well, you can figure it out. Copyright Haydn Williams 2010.

We descended the East Ridge of Pen yr Ole Wen in good time, and I was pretty chuffed to spot the wild Carneddau ponies on the way down; despite having been up on the range many times, I've never seen them before. The traditional stop at Rhug for a burger on the way home finished a great weekend off nicely.

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Welsh Winter

Friday saw another Snowdonia trip, in the company of Chris, Gareth and Luke. The plan was to find some snow given the excellent conditions over the last week. Things didn't start well, with torrential rain on the way through, but they certainly picked up over the course of the weekend.

Saturday morning found us having abandoned all ideas of snow, and setting off for a round of the Bochlwyd Horseshoe in the rain. The rain quickly turned to snow, and there also turned out to be a decent amount of snow higher up. Thus followed a snowy romp up the North Ridge of Tryfan, followed by Bristly Ridge, the Glyderau, and finally Y Garn. The descent down the East Ridge to Idwal was lovely and snowy, and a nice finish to the day.

Climbers high above Glaslyn on Left-Hand Trinity (II,*), Snowdon

Climbers high above Glaslyn on Left-Hand Trinity (II,*), Snowdon


On Sunday we decided to have a look at Trinity Face on Snowdon, and it turned into an excellent day. There was a reasonable amount of snow in the gullies, so the four of us went up Central Trinity (I/II, ***). This was my first proper graded snowy route, and it was very enjoyable. We topped out in glorious sunshine exceedingly close to the summit of Snowdon – a weird but very cool experience! Less cool was the way in which Grivel had assembled Chris' new crampons with a 'dissasemble when least expecting it' feature built in. On the way back down to the car we decided to keep it interesting and go over Crib y Ddysgyl and Crib Goch. Despite moving pretty slowly, I thoroughly enjoyed myself.
Team Mindsey head up Central Trinity (I/II,***), Clogwyn y Garnedd

Team Mindsey head up Central Trinity (I/II,***), Clogwyn y Garnedd


So in spite of having to live, as Chris so eloquently put it, on "the bare minimum" (including, but not limited to, pizza, brownies, ginger bread, spaghetti bolognese, scotch eggs, quiche (qwee-ch), bombay mix and flavoured water), we had an excellent weekend. Kudos to Luke for driving, to Chris for patiently waiting while I revelled in the joys of leading the second half of Central Trinity, and to Gareth for coordinating a truly stunning F1-style pitstop on the way home.

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Back to Snowdonia…

…but this time I didn't even open Scrambles in Snowdonia! This was another MPS jaunt, and on Saturday I planned to have a look at a Grade 3 scramble on Atlantic Slab, Carnedd y Filiast. As it was, the rain was blowing sideways down the Nant Ffrancon, so we walked around the side and then along the ridge from Carnedd y Filiast to Y Garn, and continued over the Glyderau. The entire route was incredibly windy, but some other groups managed to stay sheltered (for example on the east face of Tryfan).

Sunday dawned with a forecast of 75mph gusts and wintry showers, but we went to have a look at Ordinary Route (Diff) on Idwal Slabs. Coming up the Nant Ffrancon the tops were all clear, and the first pitch was lots of fun, but pretty uneventful weather-wise.

First pitch of Ordinary Route (Copyright Chris Burn 2008)

First pitch of Ordinary Route (Copyright Chris Burn 2008)

Meteorologically speaking, the crux of the route was the start of the second pitch. It was at this point that the driving hail came down, and the route simultaenously turned into a waterfall.

What a difference a pitch makes (Copyright Chris Burn 2008)

What a difference a pitch makes! (Copyright Chris Burn 2008)

What with discretion being the better part of valour, we decided to back off, and retreated back to Idwal Cottage where I shamelessly tucked into a massive currant slice to get over the trauma. All in all, still a very enjoyable day.

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